February - March 2004

 

Porto santo

 

Rio, New Orleans , Trinidad … Carnival time!… Colorful costumes, steel bands, the sound of the drums and people dancing in the streets. Porto Santo does not want to try and compete but if you happen to be here on Carnival Day, the day before Lent, called Entrudo in Portuguese, you will be charmed and delighted to see that this small island loves Carnival, particularly the children. Dozens of them run up and down the hills, in and out of the old disused windmills, wearing a variety of fancy dress, their faces covered by homemade masks, although some do buy the ones now on sale in the local shops. Their costumes are borrowed from their parents or older siblings, and many are very outstanding.

Sunday hats, a pair of old white gloves once worn at a wedding, mother's best shoes, some far too large for small feet… They are out early in the morning, collecting other children to join in the parade, which usually ends in the village.

The Carnival begins during the final week of February. "Carni" means meat, and "vale" means farewell - so this is the last big festival prior to the 40 day Lenten Fast until Easter. It is a big event for the school children in every village all over the island. Each class or group of students selects a theme, and then in much secrecy in the weeks ahead sew and glue up costumes make masks and ornamental headgear. Then when the school day is over, usually on the 27th, the schoolhouse doors burst open and out swarm troupes of ghost and witches, goblins, blowing whistles, clowns banging pots and pans, animal trainers with whips tigers and lions prancing on their back legs, wooly-headed African pigmies waving shiny spears, American Indians with feathered headbands, cowboys and cowgirls in sombreros lashing about and singing while strumming guitars.

They all parade through the village streets to the applause of their elders, then troop to the town where prizes are given for the most original, most spooky, most comic, most romantic, and so forth. Then, they disperse to various homes for parties and the traditional Frango Piri-Piri. This is roast chicken in the regional hot-sauce, as most kitchen gardens have a hot pepper bush.

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